General appreciation of Ebrington Barracks, Limavady Road, Londonderry BT47 6HH

The Department's description

Exterior description and setting

Ebrington Barracks is a roughly triangular portion of land which rises eastwards from the River Foyle in Londonderry to the Limavady Road. It is bounded to the north by Browning Drive and St Columb’s Park and to the south by a road widening scheme which has removed former terraced houses. The complex is located directly opposite the centre of the city on the opposite bank. The main feature of the complex – the parade ground and surrounding buildings command a fine view of the city and are equally visible from the opposite bank. The Parade Ground is a flat plateau above steep battlements and earthworks to the rivers edge. The buildings around the parade ground are mainly slated, rendered and painted and form three sides of the rectangle (HB01/09/002A,B,C,D,E,F,G,H,S,T,U,). The fourth side is open to the river.

The complex has evolved towards Limavady Road and to the south since initial construction in the 1840s. The earliest ‘fort’ forms the hub of the complex and is centred on the parade ground. The rendered buildings around the ground were defended by a ‘star fort’ arrangement in rubble ‘whinstone’ with brick trims (HB01/09/002W,X,Y,Z). While the defensive nature of the original walls inland has been substantially reduced their remains are still discernible for about 80% of their length. To the river they remain largely as originally constructed and the remnants of their associated earthworks can also be made out though a later assault course has been added. Elsewhere they form the back wall of the complex to the north, a retaining wall to the east and they have been rendered in concrete as the yard wall of the buildings to the south. An interesting aspect of the perimeter construction is the route of a path behind the river walls that climbs steeply to the parade ground from a small door in their base. This was/is to facilitate access to a riverside landing stage.

To the south of the fort is the first phase of expansion of the barracks along the riverside. Dating from the 1870s two rubble stone with brick trim buildings survive parallel to the river and stepping down the hill (HB01/09/002I & J). Between them are buildings of 20th century construction. The riverside walls of the fort were extended to enclose this area, which was designed as a larger corner bastion. Part of this wall (along the river) is now demolished. A curving rubble faced retaining wall (HB01/09/002 II) leading to the former main entrance on Limavady Road defines the southern boundary of a road between this group and the original star fort. The mascot from the prow of a sailing ship was displayed in this area until recently.

To the east of the fort is the long triangular portion of mainly 20th century expansion. A road along the edge of the fort boundary is indicated on 1830 maps prior to the construction of the complex. This is flanked by late 19th century two-storey red brick barracks to the north (HB01/09/002M & O) and by boundary of the fort and the officers mess (HB01/09/002K) to the south. It ends near the current site entrance to the north. The red brick barracks are very long relative to their height. One to the west is built on the boundary of the former fort. The officers mess constructed in 1903 is a red brick late Victorian villa with the Royal Coat of Arms mounted in a pedimented gable over the central main entrance. A small columned porte-cochere projects which is flanked by bay windows.

Ground level rises from the road eastwards into the remainder of the area. After a steep bank however the slope is much more gradual. This part of the site is occupied by a dense assortment of mainly two storey red brick buildings. The irregular nature of their arrangement reflects the development of this area and its form. The earliest buildings were constructed along the northern boundary and are largely parallel to this edge (HB01/09/002AA,BB,CC,DD, EE). There is a fine view east along the access road with mature trees to one side and barracks to the other.

The sergeants’ mess constructed parallel and east of the long red brick barracks was extended further east connecting to further accommodation in the 1950’s and is now the largest building on the site. It is flanked by the 1970’s NAAFI a flat roofed two-storey building. Other buildings are constructed parallel to the perimeter or to the fort or slotted into remaining space. There are some more recent sheds interspersed between the red brick buildings. Height throughout this area is generally consistent. The functions of the buildings are as barracks but also as stores and the motor pool. One building of note on the northern boundary is a two-storey barrack building which has exterior cast iron balcony access (HB01/09/002CC). The balconies are supported on cast iron columns. There is a similar building to the south east (HB01/09/002EE). This arrangement is reminiscent of late 19th century social housing in London but there is nothing comparable in this city. The boundary along Limavady Road is a small brick wall with concrete coping surmounted by tall painted railings. This low grade security has been supplemented by a tall profiled metal boundary wall behind supported by a steel frame.

The main entrance to the complex on the northern boundary from Browning Drive is flanked by a relatively new (1990s) guard room converted from an earlier structure. This gives access to the parade ground downhill to the south and to the road along the northern side of the base. The road downhill passes a number of small single-storey buildings dating from the 1890’s, (HB01/09/002N,Q.R) which are slated and retain their original sash windows (most other buildings on site have had their windows replaced by uPVC imitations). At each main corner of the complex a 1980’s ‘sangar’ tower has been erected. One to the north west outside the original walls has a large concrete dished wall in front dating from the sites use by the Navy.

Historical information

Historic Development

During the siege of Derry a fort was located on this site with a battery of cannons directed towards the city . This structure is indicated on a contemporary map as a rectangular enclosure with circular corner bastions to the north-west and an irregular complex of bastions to the south-west overlooking the city. Colonel O’Neill commanded a battery of canons and a regiment of infantry from this position. By the 1831 Ordnance Survey no trace of this fort appeared to survive though an examination of the 1831 map suggests that the road patterns may have formed an echo. The route of this road can be traced through the site today.

The construction of the barracks on the site began in 1841 following a number of locations on the city side. Previously soldiers had been accommodated in Foyle Street with a separate magazine at the base of Magazine Street within the city walls. By the 1830s the building was reported by the Ordnance Survey Memoirs as damp and too small for its purpose. The proposal for a barracks on this site had been discussed in1815 but had been opposed by the Council because of the location on the opposite bank. The river would compromise speed of reaction to civil unrest. The ferry connection between the fort and the city was a key element in reassuring these fears. With the formation of a Police Force in Ireland in 1836 concerns over the public order role of the military also reduced.

In 1836-7 the Ordnance Estimates record a sum for the new barracks of £6,000. The design was to accommodate 600 men and their officers. The architecture was of simple rendered buildings around a rectangular parade ground. These were in the Georgian style and enclosedwithin a ‘star fort’ of un-rendered local whinstone. The design was by the Ordnance Board based in London which from 1801 had assumed responsibility for all new military buildings in Ireland. A substantial part of this construction remains today through the boundary wall of the fort inland from the river has been altered.

The 1854 Ordnance Survey records the complex at this time. The functions of the individual buildings are clearly labelled. The 1873 map shows the complex largely unchanged through with temporary buildings on the square to each side of the main barracks. In 1875 land was purchased to the south of the complex and extra accommodation for soldiers was erected in a number of ‘whinstone’ buildings (a local form of schist) with brick and sandstone dressings to the openings. A new boundary wall was erected to surround these buildings without apparent alteration of the original. An extra bastion (now demolished) extended the fort closer to the river.

In 1891 the land was purchased to the east connecting with Limavady Road. The 1904 Ordnance Survey Map indicates these developments. The now enclosed inland wall of the star fort has been demolished and landscaped into its current form. The officers mess is constructed and the accommodation along the perimeter is progressing.

By 1933 much of the new lands to Limavady Road had been built upon. Many of these buildings were temporary huts which were replaced by more substantial brick buildings by the 1950s. Most new development has been in this area to the present period.

Historic use of the site

The buildings as described already were purpose-built as army barracks and appear to have been the first such structure in the city. In their 100 year initial history of army use they were never a regimental depot but for most of the period housed parts of locally recruited regiments. A article in the Londonderry Standard in 1891 recorded the hope that the recently purchased land to expand the base would result in its becoming the main base for a regiment. This was never to be. The 27th of Foot and 109th of Foot were initially stationed on the site. These evolved into the 1st Battalion the Enniskillen Dragoon Guards (main base Enniskillen) and the 2nd Battalion (Derry, Tyrone and Donegal) main base Omagh. They occupied the site until the First World War being replaced during the war by the 3rd (reserve) Battalion of the Enniskillen Dragoon Guards. During the war the poet Francis Ledwidge was stationed for a time at the barracks. He later died in France aged 27.

After the war the Barracks were host to a mixture of English and Scottish regiments posted to the city. Some of these regiments were the Sherwood Foresters, the Leicester, Yorkshire and Lancashires, The South Wales Borderers and the Royal Artillery.

At the start of the Second World War in 1939 a territorial unit from Wales replaced the regular army. However, after the retreat from Dunkirk in 1940 the importance of Ebrington and its city to the war effort steadily increased. The presence of U-boat bases in France caused most Convoys from America to divert to the North Atlantic route. Derry was the most westerly port and furthest from German airfields. A massive investment in port facilities and airfields was commenced.

The Army commander at Ebrington retained seniority for military matters in the city but as the balance of military personnel shifted towards the Navy the Army presence was reduced and the senior command was transferred to the Admiralty. Their commander set up his headquarters in Dill House (now demolished) in the grounds of Magee College.

In 1941 the Barracks were partly handed over to the first contingent of American ‘technicians’ to arrive in the city. These technicians were involved in the construction of further military facilities prior to the formal entrance of America into the war.

In 1942 the barracks were transferred to the Royal Navy and incorporated into HMS Ferret the name for the Naval base in the city. At the peak of operations the base handled an average of 120 Escort vessels and had a personnel strength of 30,000 men. Reports at the time describe the river thick with shipping. The base functioned as a depot for ships refuelling and taking on munitions. It was also involved in the development, planning and training of anti-submarine warfare throughout the war. Devices claimed to be developed specifically at Ebrington include: sonar devices, anti-submarine weapons such as the Squid mortar system , depth charges and anti-submarine tracking devices for planes. Squid mortar was developed and pressed into action in a very short period. It increased the success rate in attacking submarines from 9% with depth charges to 35%.

In 1945 the German U-boat fleet surrendered to the commander of HMS Ferret at Lisahally. The boats were scuppered at the mouth of Lough Foyle.

The development of anti submarine doctrine and the coordination of air and naval action had been closely associated with HMS Ferret during the war, and in the subsequent period Ebrington remained a Naval Base and retained its role in anti submarine development. The fort was renamed Sea Eagle in 1947 and the Joint Anti-Submarine School (JAAS) was added to its functions. This provided courses on Anti Submarine warfare to all NATO countries until 1970. In 1955 the base was used as the command base for a large Naval exercise involving a number of NATO Countries in the North Atlantic. Rear Admiral GUG Simpson controlled the enemy ‘Orange’ submarine force and group Captain RT Gething of JAAS controlled their planes from Sea Eagle premises. In 1951 the IRA raided the base and stole a quantity of arms causing security to be increased. By the late 1950’s however the Eglinton airbase and the Kilnappy supply base (integral parts of the Navy facilities in the area) were closed and operations were reduced at Sea Eagle. Small numbers of troops returned to the barracks in 1958.

In 1970 with the worsening security situation the base reverted to full Army use and to its original name. It has been used as the headquarters of Army 8th Brigade throughout most of ‘the Troubles’. This area covered the western of four command regions in the Province. Its parade ground has doubled as a helicopter pad and the link to the river has been used for quick connections to the other riverside base: Fort George and for river patrols. The IRA attacked the base a number of times during the period. A car bomb in the early seventies caused the main entrance to be relocated from Limavady Road, soldiers at the landing quay were attacked in the late 1980’s and a bomb damaged the Browning Drive entrance to the base in the early nineties, causing the guard house to be rebuilt. In January 2001 a mortar attack on the base caused a roof to be damaged but did not explode. The Chief Constable of the RUC announced in January 2002 that the Barracks would close ‘in response to the reduction of the terrorist threat and as part of demilitarisation moves under the Good Friday Agreement’ The Office of the First and Deputy First Minister will be given control of the base in January 2004.

References:
Primary Sources:

Nevilles Map of the Siege 1689.
Ordnance Survey Maps 1831, 1854,1873,1904,1933,1955.
O’Hagans Map of Londonderry 1847.
Lawrence Collection Photographs. Irish Architectural Archive ref: NLI No. NS3287
Aerofilms photographs early 1970’s. Irish Architectural Archive ref: A.114253
Derry Journal 6th April 1841. ‘Notice to builders’.
Londonderry Standard 11th September 1891, ’ Derry as Military Headquarters’

Secondary Sources:
History of Ebrington Barracks. (Anonymous, circa 1970’s). EHS files.
Belfast Telegraph Friday June 7th 2002- Sites Historical Role
Londonderry Sentinel June 4th 2002- Short History of Ebrington Barracks
Doherty, Richard. The Key to Victory: The Maiden City in the Second World War 1995
Douet James British Barracks 1600-1914. Their Architecture and role in Society. English heritage 1998
Kerrigan Paul . M . Castles and Fortifications in Ireland 1485-1945. Collins Press, Cork 1995

Criteria for listing: architectural interest

Not listed

Criteria for listing: historic interest

Not listed

Evaluation

Site has been considered for listing as individual buildings (see HB01/09/002A – II)

Evaluation of heritage value of whole site

AGE

The core parts of the complex date from the 19th century and the key parts of their form remains unaltered.

1. ARCHITECTURAL ASSESSMENT

A. Style

The original part of Ebrington Barracks was built as a set piece. Rendered Georgian Style buildings around a parade ground set within a star fort. The parade ground was clearly visible to the city across the river and purposefully so. This still forms the key visual impact of the barracks as most subsequent development has been subservient and constructed in darker red brick. The buildings are functional and do not have the depth of detail normally associated with the Georgian Style, however, their simplicity and consistent detail around the main parade ground are important aspects of the architectural impact of the complex. The buildings are reminiscent of those constructed adjacent to the lighthouses at Shove and Tory in Donegal at the same time. In these buildings also a simple functional rendered Georgian classicism is contrasted with unrendered walls and rocks. Details such as gable parapets are also present. The stone barracks built to the south in the second phase of building would have maintained the design of rendered buildings surrounded by rubble construction. It is a standard detail to form the openings and corners of a rubble building from brick or sandstone. These buildings are consistent in their design.

The red brick barracks to the rear of the fort are typical of the barracks constructed throughout the British Isles at the same time. They are simple functional buildings, their detail reveals their date but their simplicity and proportion harmonise well with the earlier rendered buildings within the fort.

The officers mess is constructed along the lines of a suburban residence also typical of the time. It is consistent in its detail, which has been reasonably well preserved. It is also a standard military type. The distinguishing feature of its military use is the coat of arms above the entrance. Its size and design mark it out as a landmark within the base and a counter-focus to the parade ground.

The remaining buildings are very functional in their construction but by the use of red brick maintain a consistency across the site. Less concern with proportion is discernible as the buildings become more modern.

B Ornamentation

The buildings maintain ornamentation appropriate for their style. In minimal Georgian architecture and in functional late Victorian barracks buildings ornamentation is provided by the detail of windows, roofs, gutters and doors which are consistent and carefully considered. Some of this detail has been removed from the buildings on the site. This has reduced its architectural impact. However the dominant consistency in form and proportion minimises this negative impact. A key linking detail across the site are footpaths edged in granite beside an open gutter and a row of cobbles. This now unusual detail relates to the original construction of the roads and parade ground in gravel

C Plan Form

The plan of the site particularly the first phase of building is one of its key architectural assets. Like the walled city opposite a rational plan surrounded by walls has been imposed upon a site and then adapted to the topographical conditions. In essence it is a military type designed to be recreated elsewhere. This type is fairly typical of military barrack architecture. The disposition of buildings around a parade ground; the hierarchy of their initial use; even the bastion walls are all common in designs from this period. A key difference is that the parade ground has not been completely enclosed by buildings and one side has been exposed to the view.
This is not unique in that some coastal barracks followed a similar arrangement but there do not appear to be any other examples from this period . In this case the adaptation does mean that the barrack is very visible to the nearby city. Most barracks were hidden from public view
The rational order of the original plan is also important. This reflected and reinforced the discipline and order of the military. The contrast between barracks and the disorder of surrounding streets was deliberate and was remarked upon by military planners at the time.

The evolution of the site also has close parallels with the evolution of military architecture elsewhere. Bastions surrounding a barracks were maintained due to concerns on public order and the officers mess was constructed relatively late in many barrack complexes. The tradition of officers eating at the barracks evolved quite late in their history.

In 1900 responsibility for the design of barracks passed out of the control of the Royal Engineers to a non-military authority . Their design ideas were less concerned with control and order and more with function. The evolution of the barracks complex after 1903 could be said to reflect this new approach. In this case however the constricted site probably was of equal influence.

E. Spatial Organisation

This barracks as remarked above is essentially a two-dimensional plan imposed upon a sloping site. Where the plan becomes spatially complex is in the drop from the parade ground to the river entrance. The slope of this road is dramatic and a surprise not revealed to casual view. It is a wide road capable of quickly transporting soldiers and equipment to the river exit and then to the city. The seaward gate is very discrete and low key in contrast. Some of the buildings also exploit the drop to the sea to build downwards. This adds to their architectural appearance as viewed from the city.

F. Structural System

The structural construction of the barracks is not of special interest. It is typical of the periods when the buildings were erected. The large stone retaining wall to the parade ground is of interest for its size and scale. The use of cast iron columns on the façade of a number of buildings does however add to their architectural interest

G. Innovatory Qualities

Barracks architecture is not normally associated with innovation. It is essentially a conservative building activity to house a very conservative institution. This is reflected in the use of walled enclosures developed in the 17th century in the mid 19th. There are no innovations of note in this complex, but it is a good example of contemporary barrack architecture.

H. Alterations

The evolution of this site over the years has added to its architectural interest. As established above, the development is a good example of the trends in military barrack design. The new developments have not detracted from the architectural appearance of the base to the wider city and have remained low key and do not impinge on the skyline for the most part.

I Quality and Survival of Interiors

There has been much alteration of interiors as the base has evolved over time, but a reasonable amount of original fittings appear to survive (stairs, fireplaces, skirtings, doors). These all contribute to the architectural character of the buildings, but are simple and functional for the most part with the exception of the Officers Mess. The quality and detail of the functional granite stairs inside a number of barracks are of note.

J Setting

The setting of this complex is one of its key architectural attributes. On rising ground opposite the centre of the city. It relates to this view and was designed to be seen (in contrast to many other urban barracks). Its strong symmetrical form with one side of the parade ground left open emphasises this relationship with the city. The setting of the complex has been largely maintained in the modern period.Within the site, the plan and arrangement of buildings complimented by mature trees does much to enhance the setting of individual structures. In addition to the strong architectural form of the parade ground; the curving entrance route from Limavady Road is of note; the route in front of the Officers Mess and barrack number 80/81; and the northern boundary road with barracks on the Northern side complimented by trees to the south.

K Group Value

The relationship between the rendered buildings surrounding the square increases their architectural importance considerably. Their architectural unity is a key factor in making the barracks an imposing set of buildings. Elsewhere the relationship between stone and brick buildings enhance the architectural character of open spaces to the south and along the road to the north of the original fort.

HISTORIC INTEREST

V. Historic Association/Authorship

The historic events associated with the base can be divided into three phases: The initial garrison role which is common to many Irish towns; the Second World War and Cold War role which was very important in relation to the Battle of the Atlantic and subsequent development of anti submarine techniques; and the role in the history of the Troubles in which the base acted as command centre for the Army in the West of Northern Ireland. The buildings still reflect the organisation of a nineteenth century barracks and are a good example of this. The key buildings used during WWII and the Cold War have been largely cleared of material relating to the period. Buildings were Squid Mortar was developed and from which operations were directed do survive but have been adapted and do not reflect a specific design for these functions. Much of the changes carried out during the Troubles have been minor. Due to security concerns many of the visible links such as the sangars will be dismantled before the Army leave the site.

A transient association with a war poet has been identified: Francis Ledwidge was stationed on the base for part of the First World War. This is not a significant factor in determining value for the whole site however.

W. National/International Interest

The site is of National Interest to Northern Ireland because it is the only example in the region of a barracks dating from the mid nineteenth century. It is still reasonably intact. Beyond the region it is a well-preserved variation on type and is of interest for its particular location and the reasons behind these variations

X. Local Interest

The site is of immense local interest. Of the four barracks in the city and immediate surroundings it is the only one with remaining historic buildings. More importantly it is the only one with a designed relationship with the city. It is a symbol of the changing relationship of the city with the military over 160 years and also of its role in modern maritime history. These relationships have been a very important part of the evolution of the city. From recruiting base, to garrison role, to the large military expansion during the Second World War, which had a knock-on effect on the economy, the presence of NATO sailors in the post-war years, the role since 1969 in the Troubles and the increased security presence in both base and city. The closure of the base and the reduction of security presence in the city are also parts of this story.

Y. Social Importance

The base has a large employer over the years of its existence from the community. Its enclosed nature however has meant that it has been more important in its role as a symbol to the city than as an integral part.

Z Scarcity

The building though following a UK building typology and possessing buildings found in other barracks in Northern Ireland is the only purpose-built barracks in the region dating from the mid-19th century. Other barracks built in Ireland by the Ordnance Board in the same period are: Mitchelstown, Castlebar, Roscommon, Westport, Roscrea, Comer, Sligo and Mallow.

Underground Archaeological Interest

The buildings appear to be located on the site of a redoubt erected at the Siege of Derry. There appears to have been no use of the site beyond agricultural between this period and the construction of the fort. The lost parts of the original boundary wall and associated ditch are also of archaeological interest. There may be maritime archaeology of interest associated with the landing stage and the naval role of the barracks.

General comments

This is a general overview record of the site. Individual structures are listed within it.