St Stephen's Church of Ireland

The Department's description

Exterior description and setting

Free-standing gable-fronted double-height red brick Church of Ireland church, built c. 1869, to designs by Thomas Drew; reconstructed 1963 to designs by architect E. Seaton, A.R.I.B.A. of Messrs W&M. Given, Coleraine. Rectangular-on-plan facing east, abutted by multi-gabled nave arcades at north and south; bell tower at north-east corner, built c.1963. Semi-circular chancel at west abutted by vestry annex at south. Located on a small isolated site within close proximity of Belfast Metropolitan College, on the west side of Millfield Street, Belfast.

Pitched natural slate roofs with blue/black ridge tiles, lead-valleys, raised stone verges supported on sandstone kneeler stones, concealed gutters, cast-iron rainwater goods with hoppers. Flemish-bonded red brick walling with black brick string courses. Double-height brick angle buttresses with brick offset to chancel and north nave-arcade. Equilateral arched window openings formed in chamfered brick surrounds with plain stop chamfer and polychromatic brick voussoirs, containing leaded stained glass covered externally by protective reinforced plastic (unless otherwise stated).

East elevation comprises double-height projecting gabled entrance porch built 1963, with stepped full-height ashlar limestone piers flanking a central shallow gabled red brick panel, all surmounted by limestone coping. Vertically sheeted timber entrance doors pierced with a series of vertical openings at high level, with transom light over surmounted by concrete canopy topped with cast-metal railings. Entrance door accessed by three masonry steps. Canopy surmounted by large vertical etched glass window at centre, having cast concrete reveal and mullions. Entrance flanked at north and south by nave arcade, each lit by triangular pseudo-arched windows (three to north, four to south, each illustrating one of the seven signs of Christ). Red brick bell tower attached at north corner, comprising flat ashlar limestone panel on east elevation, surmounted by modern glazed belfry with copper clad roof construction. Access into the church grounds is provided by two cast-metal doors on east and west elevations.

South elevation is five bays wide. Four gabled bays at right (which make up the nave-arcade) each with paired windows. Fifth bay at left is abutted by irregular lean-to vestry annex; red brick chimney at junction between chancel and vestry. Replacement entrance door on south-west corner accessed via concrete ramp and tubular mild-steel handrail; diminished square-headed window at south.

West elevation is abutted at centre by semi-circular chancel with conical roof and finial over, six windows divided by two angle buttresses. Vestry annex at right contains square headed window at right and equilateral arched window at left, window located over stepped access to basement boiler room. North nave-arcade at left contains two large equilateral-arched openings (now blocked); abutted at left by lean-to store. Store contains window (diminished) at south (now bricked up), square-headed door opening at west.

North nave-arcade is five bays wide, each bay contains two windows (windows smaller than south), except the right bay which contains a single window. Adjoining store at right contains an equilateral arched door opening (now bricked up). Left bay is abutted by red brick bell tower described above.

Setting:
Set on a small city centre site to the west of the Millfield Street. Church hall at west has similar detailing and was built c.1870. Site adjacent to car park at north and Belfast Metropolitan College buildings at south and west. Church grounds accessed at south-east corner via painted mild-steel railings enclosing both vehicular and pedestrian entrances.

Roof Natural Slate
RWG Cast-iron
Walling Flemish bonded red brick
Windows Equilateral-arched leaded stained glass

Historical information

St. Stephen’s Church of Ireland, a mid-Victorian barn type church (now heavily modernised and refronted), was originally constructed in 1868-69 to designs by Sir. Thomas Drew (1838-1910). Drew, a Dublin-based architect but originally born in Belfast, was an apprentice to Charles Lanyon but moved to Dublin in 1862 where he was described as ‘a young architect of uncommon talent’ (Irish Builder). In 1865 Drew was appointed architect to the united Down, Connor and Dromore Diocese; according to the Dictionary of Irish Architect’s list of his completed works, St. Stephen’s Church of Ireland was the first new church building Drew completed as diocesan architect (all previous work had included alterations and additions to pre-existing structures). The DIA notes that ‘church architecture was Drew’s principal activity throughout his career, culminating in his design for St. Anne’s Cathedral (HB26/50/067) which he completed in 1904. The Irish Builder records that St. Stephen’s foundation stone was laid on 8th May 1868 (Irish Builder, p. 168).

St. Stephen’s Church of Ireland was consecrated on 28th October 1869 (Leslie, p. 115) and was first included in the Annual Revisions in that year which valued the structure, and the rear single-storey schoolhouse (now the church hall), at £250. When originally completed the church possessed a campanile tower on the north-west side of the building located to the north of its rounded apse; the tower was removed in the 1960s when the church was extensively renovated. The Belfast revaluation noted that St. Stephen’s Church was increased in value in 1900; at that time the building was owned by the church trustees and detailed floor plan records that the general layout of the building has been maintained, apart from the moving of the bell tower, since 1900. The revaluation also noted that the current single-storey schoolhouse to the rear of the building was installed with gas fittings and was individually valued at £55; the valuer stated that the schoolhouse was also utilised by the congregation for concerts and as a venue for lectures. There was no alteration to the value of either building by the end of the Annual Revisions which were cancelled in 1930.

St. Stephen’s Church of Ireland was increased in value to £270 under the First General Revaluation of property in Northern Ireland; the schoolhouse, then described as an Elementary School, was similarly raised to £80. Remarkably the church survived the Blitz of Belfast in 1941 when much of Millfield Street was demolished; minor damage to the building was repaired and by the end of the second revaluation in 1972 the value of the site had been increased to £632, the increase partially due to the refronting of the building in 1963.

Brett states that due to his ‘exuberant personality’ Sir. Thomas Drew may not have been ‘an entirely suitable person to embark on a programme of cheap churches’ for the diocese. He described the interior of the church as ‘fussy and cavernous,’ not the best example of Drew’s preference for ‘robust and virile’ Gothic design (Brett, p. 48). The Gothic design of the church was irrevocably altered in the mid-20th century when, due to the widening of the road in 1963, the original facade was removed and replaced with the current redbrick and limestone replacement. It was at this time that the original campanile tower was removed and the replacement (also of redbrick and limestone) added to the new façade; the work was carried out to designs by E. Seaton of Messers W & M. Given, Coleraine. Neither Brett nor Patton admired the alteration, Patton remarking that the church had been ‘decapitated ... with its former entrance replaced by a boxy new front and firestation-like campanile with a glass box at its tip containing a neon cross; Brett merely noted his disapproval of a ‘totally inappropriate refronting.’ Despite the alteration to the exterior facade and tower Patton noted the significance of the interior of the church and records that St. Stephen’s contains ‘the finest collection in the province of stained glass by Daniel Braniff’ (Brett, p. 48; Patton, p. 236).

An independent congregation since its completion in 1869, St. Stephen’s parish was joined with St. Luke’s in 1980 after which time they shared curates (Leslie, p. 116). St. Stephen’s Church of Ireland was listed in 1992 and since that time has continued to be utilised as a house of worship despite declining attendance brought about by its isolated position; in 2006 the church became the sole Anglican Church in the parish after the closure of St. Lukes and in 2009 the church celebrated its 140th anniversary (Church of Ireland website). St. Stephen’s Church is currently preparing to undergo renovation work intended to deal with damp; the renovation will also involve repointing of the building’s brickwork and the redecoration of the interior (Belfast City Council Planning Application).

References

Primary Sources

1. PRONI OS/6/1/61/2 – Second Edition Ordnance Survey Map 1858
2. PRONI OS/6/1/61/3 – Third Edition Ordnance Survey Map 1901-02
3. PRONI OS/6/1/61/4 – Fourth Edition Ordnance Survey Map 1931
4. PRONI OS/6/1/61/5 – Fifth Edition Ordnance Survey Map 1938
5. PRONI VAL/12/B/43/E/1-24 – Annual Revisions 1862-1930
6. PRONI VAL/7/B/12/5 – Belfast Revaluation 1900
7. PRONI VAL/3/B/3/18 – First General Revaluation of Northern Ireland 1935
8. PRONI VAL/4/B/7/37 – Second General Revaluation of Northern Ireland 1956-72
9. Irish Builder, Vol. 10 (1 Jul 1868)
10. Belfast Street Directories (1861-1943)
11. First Survey Image – HB26/50/223 (1991)
12. Ordnance Survey map – 130-13NE (1959-60)

Secondary Sources

1. Brett, C. E. B., ‘Buildings of Belfast: 1700-1914’ Belfast: Friar’s Bush Press, 1985.
2. Leslie, J. B., ‘Clergy of Connor: From patrician times to the present day’ Belfast: Ulster Historical Foundation, 1993.
3. Patton, M., ‘Central Belfast: An historical gazetteer’ Belfast: Ulster Architectural Heritage Society, 1993.

Online Resources

1. Dictionary of Irish Architects website - http://www.dia.ie
2. Belfast City Council Planning Application website –
http://openlylocal.com/planning_applications/1847139-Planning-Application-Z-2012-1067-LBC-St-Stephens-Church-of-Ireland-M-

Criteria for listing: architectural interest

A. Style
B. Proportion
C. Ornamentation
D. Plan Form
I. Quality and survival of Interior

Criteria for listing: historic interest

X. Local Interest
Y. Social, Cultural or Economic Importance
V. Authorship

Evaluation

An evolved Victorian red brick Church of Ireland church, originally built c. 1869, to designs by Thomas Drew; restyled 1963 to designs by architect E. Seaton, A.R.I.B.A. The Gothic-style construction of the original building remains apparent in the scale, massing and materials of the church, but its form is now dominated by the post-war styling of the entrance façade and bell tower. After much interior alteration the original Victorian arcaded form survives and is enhanced by an almost complete collection of stained glass windows throughout (some by the artist D.I.Braniff), including a display window from the associated St Luke’s Parch Church, in memory of the Canon of St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin 1920-1935. the changes represent an interesting and unusual record of the changed circumstances of the church and the site and, as such, are of special interest. It is also representative of the work of noteworthy architects.