Mulhouse Building

The Department's description

Exterior description and setting

A three-storey (+ attic), 31-opening wide former brick linen warehouse of 1880 in High Victorian style.
Set at the E end of the Royal Victoria Hospital complex, with tarmaced car parks to N and S, Roden Street to E and hospital buildings to W (including HB26/32/007).

Roof:
Pitched natural slate roof with several small skylights to S pitch. Flagged verges with decorative metal finials and moulded kneelers. Ogee cast-iron rainwater gutters. Deep overhanging eaves to front supported on elongated horizontal moulded brackets. Rear eaves are supported on corbelled serrated brick eaves course. The walls are of brick to all elevations.

North elevation:
The building is aligned E-W with its principal elevation facing N. There are vee-jointed stucco quoins at each end of this façade, with wraparound moulded cill courses running across the entire length of the building at FF and at SF level, both with a thin stucco string course under. A string course also runs across at arch spring level on each of the upper floors, and also under the eaves brackets. The gable kneelers to this elevation are surmounted by urn finials).
The openings to the façade are symmetrically arranged about a centrally placed entrance portico. A six-panel raised-and-fielded painted timber door is flanked by glazed side- and overlights. The door case is flanked to each side by three in-stepping, partly-attached plain columns with Corinthian capitals. The outermost columns support two corbelled brackets on which rests a substantial balcony. The latter has a deep moulded architrave, panelled frieze and moulded cornice, all in stucco. There is no actual access to the balcony from FF level (except via a window), so it is actually more of an architectural construct, in the form of an entablature. The frieze has two decorative recessed panels to front and single blank side panels. The rectangular space formed by the door head and entablature brackets has a raised and fielded plain circular panel set in a semicircular stucco moulding. The underside of the entablature also has a circular stucco panel.
The entrance is flanked to each side by a window opening with moulded semicircular head and vermiculated keystone, all in stucco. These windows contain replacement uPVC windows but retain their original stone cills. The first floor has three similarly detailed, but larger openings containing 2/2 timber sliding sash windows. The keystones to the heads are in the form of figureheads and there are mounded circular panels in the spandrels between them (not lions’ heads as described in the 1880 newspaper article). The second floor has three pairs of 2/2 timber sliding sash windows. Each pair is set in a common segmental stucco moulded head, again with figurehead stucco keystone, and with a column divide. The entrance and windows thus described above are demarcated to each side by a shallow brick pilaster.
The remainder of the GF and FF windows are detailed as those flanking the entrance. The SF windows are also similar, but are not paired.

East gable:
This gable is three openings wide, but, unlike the façade, is without any stucco embellishment. The GF is abutted to left and centre by a later single-storey flat-roofed building, and by a metal fire escape staircase at right. There are three round-headed openings to FF – a two-leaf door with overlight to centre, and a 2/2 timber sash window to each side. The SF has three 2/2 sash windows in segmental heads. There is also a round-headed opening to the gable apex, now sheeted over.

South elevation:
The rear elevation is plain and abutted at each end by shallow flat-roofed brick toilet blocks with flat concrete-headed windows to their cheeks (indicating 20th C additions). At centre is a pyramidal brick lift tower (probably a relatively modern addition).
The entire ground floor is abutted by a single-storey annex with pitched profiled-metal roof, pebble-dashed openings and square-headed window and door openings. This is probably a modern addition rather than the refurbishment of a previous building.
Most of the GF opes have been infilled or converted into doorways to access the single-storey annex. All the openings to the upper floors contain 2/2 timber sliding sash windows and have stone cills. Those to FF have semicircular heads, and those to SF are segmental; all have chamfered edges.
The right-hand end of this elevation is also abutted by a long two-storey return with pitched roof (in the process of being reclad at the time of survey), pebbledashed walls and assorted openings. This may well be an original building (as noted in the 1900 Valuation), but is now too altered, both outside and in, to be of special heritage interest. This building now houses the N. Ireland Cancer Registry.

West gable:
This end is likewise plain. There is a wide segmental-headed doorway to the ground floor, now infilled and plastered over; this was the original goods entrance. To its right is a small fire escape door under a flat concrete head; this is a much later insertion. The FF has a doorway at left and a 2/2 sash window to middle and right, all with semicircular heads. The doorway is connected by a metal footbridge from W. There are three 2/2 sash windows to FF set in segmental headed openings. In the apex is a semicircular-headed loading door with projecting cantilevered jib. This would have been the only goods intake on the upper floors. However, the present jib is undoubtedly a modern replacement of the original set-up. All the window openings have stone cills.

Roof: Natural slate.
RWG: Ogee cast-iron.
Walling: Brick.
Windows: uPVC casements (GF); 2/2 timber sliding sash (FF, SF).

Historical information

The Mulhouse Works was opened by Robert Lindsay & Co in 1881 for the weaving, bleaching, printing and warehousing of linen goods; the building under review contained offices and stores. The Belfast News Letter of 17th May 1881 gives a very detailed architectural and operational description of the new factory around the time of its completion:
“The growth of the trade of the firm of Messrs Robert Lindsay & Co Limited, having exhausted the accommodation available at the premises occupied by the firm in Victoria Street, addition to these, or removal to others, become necessary.
The manufacturing operations were carried on in the extensive factory in Mulhouse Street, near Grosvenor Street; and here a large space was available for building purposes. On this a new warehouse has been erected, suitable to the requirements of the firm, creditable to the enterprise of the directors, and ornamental to the locality. Concentration has been obtained as well as convenience. Though the noble façade may fairly be said to blush unseen, owing to the distance for the central portions …. it is very handsome, massive and pleasing.
The new buildings consist of a suite of warerooms, offices and stores, occupying the front position, and a smaller part running at right angles, which will be used as printing, preparing and finishing rooms.
The frontage is about 300ft in length and the height from foundation to coping is about 50ft. The main building is three storeys in height. The windows on the lower storeys have semicircular tops and the keystones are ornamented with heads, emblematic of England, Ireland and Scotland, the nationality being indicated by wreaths of roses, shamrocks and thistles. The windows on the next floor have segmental tops and lions’ heads are placed on the keystones. Courses of cement divide the storeys. Stone corbels support the ornamental cornice of the coping, and handsome urns are placed at each corner of the building. The spouting has a neat spiked border, of a design similar to that of the ridge tiles.
The principal entrance is from a neat portico and the door is placed in an arched recess and over it there is a stone balcony. The windows opening on the balcony are larger than the others in the same row, and instead of symbolic heads, those of Shakespeare and Wellington, with Regina between them, are carved.
The pediment displays the name of the firm and of the works in large gilt letters, and is surmounted by a fine group of statuary. The group contains three figures. The central statue represents Industry, who bears an hour glass in one hand, and with the forefinger of the other pointing to a beehive. Art is represented by a figure with a palette and, on a pile of linen, Commerce is seated holding a distaff.
The ground floor is divided by the staircase heading from the principal entrance into to almost equal divisions. That on the right will be used as a cloak room for the workers and for storage. The portion on the left will be occupied by the laundry.
A suite of offices, with sample and sale rooms, will occupy the second floor [if the ground floor is regarded as the first floor]. The walls on this floor are sheeted with pitch pine, and the ceiling is of the same wood in diagonal panels. The traverse beams are richly moulded, and are supported by graceful metal columns with floriated capitals.
The next floor [i.e. second floor] forms one splendid apartment, magnificently lighted and ventilated, and stretching 300ft without a break. In it the various operations incidental to the finishing of the goods will be carried on.
The attic – though such a word scarcely describes the airy, cheery apartment with abundance of light and a good elevation – will be utilized for storage and as a dining room. For the latter purpose, a range of gas cooking stoves and other appliances of a suitable character are provided.
A fine hoist, with landings on each floor, communicates with the goods entrance at the end of the building.
The extent of the building will be appreciated when it is mentioned that there is a floorage of almost 40,000 sq.ft. The whole of the new erection has been built by the firm under the supervision of Mr Thompson, managing director. Everything is of the best material, and the work has been executed in a manner which professional builders and architects might not be ashamed to own.
Immediately behind the warehouse is the factory. This comprises a weaving factory in which about 400 power looms are employed, bleach works, and print works. There are thus combined in one building all the processes necessary to the preparation of the goods for the various markets of the world. The raw material passes through all its stages, and thus under one management it does not require to leave the premises until, in the form of finished goods, it is packed for shipment for use in all parts of “Greater Britain”, there to delight with its excellence, delicacy and tasteful design the elite of the Dominion, the fashion of Saratoga, the belles of the Antipodes, and the dusky beauties of our Eastern empire”.
It should be noted that the above description differs slightly to the detailing of the building as it now exists (e.g. window head profiles and keystone decoration). It is possibly based on the architect’s drawings rather than a personal visit by the reporter. The building may have been conceived in 1876 as the First Survey record card notes a drawing of this date in Belfast City Hall; its architect is noted as J. A.Lindsay.
The Victoria Street premises alluded to in this article were at 63 Victoria Street. This address is noted as the firm’s location in the Belfast street directory for 1877, and they are described as “muslin, cambric and cambric handkerchief manufacturers”. The new factory just off Grosvenor Road is alluded to in the 1880 street directory, so must have been in the process of construction at that time. It is also cited in the 1881 Valuation Revision book as: “Robert Lindsay & Co, Mulhouse Works and yard, rateable valuation £700”. The fact that it has such a high valuation reflects both the fact that it was now open in this year, and that it was a very large site (the valuation being based, amongst other things, on total floor area). However, the 1882 valuation notes an increase it its valuation to £750 indicating the addition of other buildings since the first valuation survey.
The factory is depicted on the 1883-84 OS map, in which it is captioned as ‘Mulhouse Works’. This map depicts not only the building under review, but also an extensive block of buildings to its south, including a chimney (indicating the use of a steam engine for motive power). This block probably comprised a one-storey building with north-facing roof lights and containing the above weaving sheds, bleaching and print works described above)
The 1884 street directory notes that the factory was now being operated by Lindsay, Thompson and Co Ltd. They are described as “manufacturers, bleachers, printers, dyers and finishers”.
The 1891 publication of the industries of Belfast notes Lindsay, Thompson & Co as flax spinners, manufacturers, bleachers, dyers and printers. According to that publication, this firm was founded in the 1830s by Robert Lindsay J.P, and incorporated under its present name in 1880; that this coincided with the opening of the Mulhouse Works is probably no coincidence. Mr Lindsay had since died and Robert Thompson was now its chairman and managing director. Flax spinning was also carried on at the Prospect Mill (on the Crumlin Road), and the resultant yarn was then woven into brown linen cloth which was then bleached, dyed and printed at the Mulhouse Works. Linen cambric handkerchiefs appear to have been its main product line, both for the home market and export trade. According to the 1891 article, upwards of 2000 people were employed by the firm at the firm’s two premises, and also several thousand sewers and weavers working from their own homes. Seemingly Mr Lindsay pioneered was a “pioneer in the modern development of handkerchief manufacture in Ireland”.
Robert Thompson (1839-1918) was, amongst other things, chairman of the Belfast Harbour Board and the Thompson Dry Dock is named after him in recognition of his services to the Board. He is buried in Belfast City Cemetery.
The 1900 Valuation notebook contains a sketch plan of the entire site, together with materials and dimensions for each of its components. The main building is described as 3½ storeys high and 282ft long by 33ft deep by 43ft high. At each end was a small brick stack, 32ft high (probably for toilets). The rear sheds were one-storey high, of brick and with partly-glazed slate roofs. This block measured 247ft (E-W) by 163ft x 14ft and contained 350 (power) looms and two calendars. Aligned N-S at the E side of the weaving sheds was a two-storey brick building measuring 160ft x 28ft x 23ft. Set E-W along the S wall of the sheds were two buildings, probably for the boiler and engines. Six engines are recorded (26hp, 6hp, 5hp, 4hp and 3hp), four Lancashire boilers and a 31ft high chimney at the SE corner of the site. The workforce numbered 550 at that time.
Minor additions may have been made to the premises in the early 1900s as the site’s valuation increases from £750 to £810 in 1906. It is captioned as “Mulhouse Works, Weaving & Finishing” on the 1901 OS map.
According to the street directories, Messrs Lindsay, Thompson & Co continued their operations at the Mulhouse Works until 1934. The following year the premises were in the ownership of the Blackstaff Spinning & Weaving Co and being used as a warehouse. The 1935 Valuation book describes the site at “offices, warehouse and weaving factory (disused)”. Evidently linen manufacturing had ceased and only the principal building was now being used, presumably for goods made elsewhere by Messrs Blackstaff.
The OS maps of 1920, 1931 and 1937 show no major changes to have been made to the factory’s footprint since the 1901 edition.
The Leeds-based textile manufacturers Fairbairn, Lawson, Combe, Barbour Ltd, also had a presence at the Mulhouse Works, where they are recorded as producing munitions for the war effort from 1941 onwards in the sheds at the rear of the main building. They vacated the sheds in 1946 and these are described as ‘dilapidated’ in the 1951 valuation.
Sometime during the Second World War, the statues to Industry, Art and Commerce which were noted in the 1880 newspaper article and which were apparently locally known as the ‘Mulhouse virgins’, were removed; they were never reinstated.
The Blackstaff Spinning & Weaving Co continues to be cited in the street directories until the premises were vacated in 1968. The site was subsequently used as an army base during the troubles in the 1970s.
The weaving sheds at the rear of the main building have since been demolished and the latter refurbished for use by the Medical Facility of Queen’s University. The medical library, on the ground floor, was opened on 9th May 2002.

References – Primary Sources:
1. 1877 Belfast & Province of Ulster Street Directory, p.401.
2, Belfast News-Letter, 17 May 1881, p.5, columns 2 and 3.
3. 1880 Belfast & Province of Ulster Street Directory, p.393.
4. PRONI VAL/12/B/43/D/4. Valuation Revision Books (1862-82): Mulhouse Street, entry 45 (dated 1881; no page number).
5. PRONI VAL/12/B/43/D/11. Valuation Revision Books (1882-1896): Mulhouse Street, p.684, entry 35 (dated 1882).
6. PRONI OS/8/30/3A/35. OS 1:1056 map, Belfast sheet 35 (1883-84).
7. 1884 Belfast & Province of Ulster Street Directory, p.499.
8. The Industries of Ireland, Part 1: Belfast and Towns of the North, p. 132 (London: Historical Publishing Co, 1891). Reprinted as Industries of the North One Hundred Years Ago (Belfast: Friar’s Bush Press, 1986).
9. 1892 Belfast & Province of Ulster Street Directory, p.591.
10. PRONI VAL/7/B/9/54. Valuation Notebook (1900), pp 52-55.
11. PRONI OS/10/1/60/12/1 OS 25-inch map, Co Antrim sheet 60-12 (1901).
12. PRONI VAL/12/B/43/C/35. Valuation Revision Books (1906-14): Mulhouse Street, p.750, entry 35 (dated 1906).
13. PRONI OS/10/1/60/12/2 OS 25-inch map, Co Antrim sheet 60-12 (1920).
14. PRONI OS/10/1/60/12/3 OS 25-inch map, Co Antrim sheet 60-12 (1931).
15. PRONI VAL/3/B/3/14. General Revaluation of N. Ireland (1935), p.643, entry 35.
16. 1935 Belfast & Province of Ulster Street Directory, p.499.
17. PRONI VAL/3/C/3/26. Valuation Revision Books (1936-57), p.644, entry 35.
18. PRONI OS/10/1/60/12/4 OS 25-inch map, Co Antrim sheet 60-12 (1937).

References – Secondary Sources:
1. NIEA First Survey record card.
2. Information on Robert Thompson in Maritime & Industrial Heritage Trail, Belfast City Cemetery.
3. C.E.B. Brett, Buildings of Belfast 1700-1914, p.58 (Belfast: Friars’ Bush Press, 1967).

Criteria for listing: architectural interest

A. Style
B. Proportion
C. Ornamentation
D. Plan Form
F. Structural System
H-. Alterations detracting from building
I. Quality and survival of Interior
K. Group value

Criteria for listing: historic interest

R. Age
S. Authenticity
T. Historic Importance
Y. Social, Cultural or Economic Importance
V. Authorship
X. Local Interest
Z. Rarity

Evaluation

The High Victorian architecture of this building is impressive in terms of its scale, massing, and embellishment and was undoubtedly built by Robert Lindsay & Co to enhance the public’s perception of its enterprise (despite much of the ornamentation being stucco rather than stone). The building’s original spatial configuration can still be read, despite subsequent internal partitioning, particularly in the administrative offices on the first floor. The regularity of the floor transoms and supporting cast-iron columns between the window bays is of structural interest. However, the demolition of the rear weaving factory makes its original industrial context less obvious than it was.
The interior, although now subdivided, much of its lavish detailing is still evident in the staircases, columns between all floors, and in the wall and ceiling panelling to the first floor. The building is of local historical interest, retaining much of its original fabric there is also of social interest as it was once a major place of employment in the area. Buildings of this type were not uncommon in the late 19th and early 20th C, but many have been lost to redevelopment, so much so that this is now a comparatively rare example of its type.