3 Coastguard Cottages

The Department's description

Exterior description and setting

A gabled two-storey two-bay mid-terrace red brick former coastguard cottage, built 1856, located on the south shores of Belfast lough to the west of Helens Bay. Square on plan with single storey extension to rear.

Pitched natural slate roof with raised stone gables; masonry chimneystack with rendered coping and decorative terracotta pots to north. Rendered chimneystack with single terracotta pot to south, rising from shared valley with HB 23/15/044A. Walling is Flemish bonded red brick with stone kneeler. Windows are timber replacements having leaded glass to upper pane with pointed timber arch and flat brick lintel. Cast-iron half-round rainwater goods with drive-in brackets and hoppers on overhanging sandstone eaves with red brick corbels.

The principal elevation faces north and is a single opening wide. Entrance comprises timber boarded door to left having decorative cast-iron hinges and door furniture; pointed arch leaded transom light with timber lintel.

The east elevation is abutted by adjoining building, HB 23/15/044C.

The south (rear) elevation is painted render and is two windows wide to first floor: ground floor is abutted to east by rear return with modern glazed door and window. Rear yard is paved and enclosed by painted masonry wall with timber half-door.

The west elevation is abutted by adjoining building, HB 23/15/044A.

Setting
The house is set down a long private lane to the north west of the Craigdarragh road, Helens Bay. Facing north the terrace has uninterrupted views of Belfast lough and direct access to the beach. There is a large lawned communal garden to front, partially bound by mature trees to North and accessed from the east by a decorative cast-iron gate. To the rear each terrace has a private garden and car-parking.

Roof: Natural slate
Walling: Brick
Windows: Timber
RWG: Cast-iron

Historical information

The Coastguard cottages were built in 1856 by Lord Dufferin and Clandeboye under the supervision of his agent, Mortimer Thomson. They may have been designed by Benjamin Ferrey who was working for Lord Dufferin at this period.

The buildings are first shown on the second edition Ordnance Survey map of 1858 captioned ‘Coast Guard Station’. A ‘Flag Staff’ and ‘Boat Ho[use]’ are also shown. Griffith’s Valuation (1856-64) lists a Coast Guard Station and land occupied by the Board of Admiralty and leased from Lord Dufferin. The buildings are valued at £34.10s.

The primary purpose of the Coastguard during the first half of the nineteenth century was to prevent smuggling and thereby protect government revenue. Lifesaving was not an official function until 1922 but many valiant rescues were nonetheless carried out by the coastguard. For example, in 1893 the Helen’s Bay coastguard were involved in rescuing the crew of the schooner ‘Clans’ of Chester which had become stranded in Helen’s Bay. (Mayne, p.14, Board of Trade Journal)

The Coast Guard in Ireland was established in 1822 and by 1824 there were stations along the entire coastline of Ireland, the main contraband at the time being unprocessed tobacco, which was heavily used by working people while being subject to heavy taxation. The coastguard force was usually unpopular with local people and although, initially, crews were given rented accommodation in the villages and towns near the stations, this was eventually deemed unsatisfactory and dwellings were built for them on stations themselves. Crews in Ireland were often seen as representatives of the Crown and attracted additional, political, hostility. At the same time it was thought inadvisable for them to fraternise too closely with local people. (Mayne, p.16)

In 1856 the coastguard was transferred to the Admiralty and its functions were redefined to include being a coastal defensive force and a naval reserve in case of war as well as the protection of revenue. Responsibility for building and maintenance of coastguard buildings was given to the Board of Public Works and a second phase of station building took place, most buildings being based on the designs of E Trevor Owens, brother-in-law of Charles Lanyon. It is not clear why the building of Clandeboye coastguard station was not entrusted to the Board of Public Works, but it is known that Lord Dufferin took an active interest in the aesthetic properties of the dwellings on his estate and he may have preferred to exert greater control over the process than would otherwise have been possible. Thomas McKnight, editor of the Northern Whig, noted, in a discussion of the Irish ‘land question’ that, “it is only just to admit that, according to his opportunities and his resources since he had succeeded to his estate, Lord Dufferin had comparatively spent more on it than perhaps any other Irish landlord has done on his…The houses he built for the coastguards and for the workpeople engaged round Clandeboye are in a style far superior to similar buildings on the estates of much larger landlords…” Architecturally, the cottages do not show the defensive features, such as gun loops, associated with some coastguard stations designed by the Board of Works. (Mayne, p.17, McKnight, p.102)

Surviving correspondence sent to Lord Dufferin and Mortimer Thomson, his agent, reveals the extent of their involvement in the construction of the Station. Prior to his leaving for London in January 1856, Lord Dufferin left Thomson with his instructions, “Coast Guard Station - To finish before 1st May so that possession may be then handed over. If jet black bricks cannot be procured, to recess the form of devices so that Lord Dufferin’s views may be carried out with coloured tiles. In the main part of the building, the bricks to be carefully selected so as to preserve a uniformity of colour. The grounds in front to be levelled, laid down with grasses and studded with trees &c.”

On 1st April Thomson writes to Dufferin, “My Lord,…We are progressing with the Coast Guard Station but it will take every exertion to have three or four ready at 1st of May. We were obliged to proceed without either coloured bricks or tiles but recessed the devices to receive them. The tiles have now arrived. I hope to be able before the 1st of May to reassure your Lordship that beautiful black brick can be obtained in this country as I have had a communication from Limerick on the subject.” By 23rd July the houses were said to be almost finished, “My Lord, the Coast Guards have been in occupation of three of the houses since the first of June and we expect to have the others all ready by the first week in August. The entire group will finish satisfactorily as to external appearance and internal arrangement”.

It seems that the intention had been to let some of the houses on the station but this plan was never to come to fruition. Thomson writes on 23rd September, “My Lord, I have to report that we are still engaged in completing the Coast Guard Station, five of the houses being occupied and two not yet quite ready. The two extra houses built for letting as bathing lodges, I understand the commissioners are also anxious to take, the authorities having issued instructions to double the force at every station”.

It seems that the question of tiles and bricks was partially unresolved in 1856 and Lord Dufferin writes from Grosvenor Square on 14th March 1868, “My Dear Thomson, It has struck me that instead of having the Coast Guard Houses finished with tiles, it would do quite well to have the empty space filled with a sanded board to imitate brick something like your ridgeway. This would be less expensive.” This latter comment appears to apply to the arches over doors and windows, which have indeed been finished with wood.

Lord Dufferin’s involvement with the Coastguard Station, called Clandeboye until at least 1890, at about which time the name was changed to Helen’s Bay Coastguard Station, continued for some years, and the crew of the station clearly considered themselves to be under his patronage. Letters have survived from Station Officer Richard Keane asking Lord Dufferin to exert his influence with regard to a son, a daughter and then a colleague who were seeking work in Belfast.

The life of the crewmen could be isolated, and in unsettled political times they were often under threat. In addition to this they were liable to be transferred to other stations as a letter from Thomas Nester to Lord Dufferin in September 1879 makes clear, “My Lord, You will perhaps remember that when you went out to Constantinople with Captain Hewitt in the Melpomene you said you would be glad to give me a help some day. I did not expect ever to have to trouble you but now matters compel me to do so. In consequence of the regulation limiting the time for a coastguard on one station to six years I fear I shall be removed from this station as I have now been six years here. This would be for me a great misfortune as I have some of my children learning trades in Belfast and should I have to break up my home to go to a distant station I should have to remove them. Might I ask you to use your influence to get me leave to remain on here for a further term instead of being removed to some other station. If you would arrange this for me you would confer a great favour on your obedient servant…”

In 1898 the Dufferin Estate Office continues, as landlord, to have an involvement in the maintenance and development of the cottages, a letter from Dufferin’s agent to another member of his staff stating, “Coastguard houses Helen’s Bay…I beg to enclose letter of 29th July last from Board of Works, also one from Kerr Builder, giving probable cost of improvements and additions." It would appear to be at this point that returns were added to the cottages.

There are no changes in Annual Revisions but the station is captioned ‘Helen’s Bay Coastguard Station’ on the third edition of 1900-2. The 1901 Belfast and Province of Ulster Street Directory lists the crew of Clandeboye Coastguard Station as: John Pring, chief boatman; boatmen, Palmer, Pinwell, Mackay, and Purdy Kerr; coastguards, McEwan, Telint, Robertson. The 1907 edition, now referring to the station as Helen's Bay, lists the crew as: Henry Brunsen, chief boatman; boatmen, T. Dickson, T. Dingley; coastguards, T. Seagrove, A. White, and M. Gunning.
The station master was James Thompson.

By 1925 the building was no longer in use as a Coastguard station and a letter from Mrs John Murry survives in which she appeals directly to the then Prime Minister James Craig for one of the houses, “I was told if I would speak to you a word from you would get one for no one would go against you”. The prime minister’s office referred her request to the Ministry of Finance for sympathetic consideration.

Refurbishment works were carried out to the property in 1986 including damp proofing and the replacement of five windows to match the existing detailing.

Approval for a garage and workroom in the rear garden was granted in 1988.

The property is still in residential use.

References:

Primary Sources

1.PRONI OS/6/3/1/2 – Second Edition OS map 1858
2.PRONI OS/6/3/1/3 – Third Edition OS Map 1900-02
3.PRONI OS/6/3/1/4 – Fourth Edition OS Map 1919-31
4.PRONI OS/6/3/1/5 – Fifth Edition OS Map 1938-41
5.PRONI VAL/2/B/3/1 – Griffith’s Valuation Map (1856-64)
6.PRONI VAL/2/B/3/1B – Griffith’s Valuation (1856-64)
7.PRONI VAL/12/B/23/7A-K – Annual Revisions (1866-99)
8.PRONI VAL/12/B/23/8A-C – Annual Revisions (1894-1923)
9.PRONI D1071/A/K/1B/5/1 - Dufferin Estate Papers (1856)
10.PRONI D1071/A/K/1B/18/1 - Dufferin Estate Papers (1856)
11.PRONI D1071/A/K/1F/1 - Dufferin Estate Papers (1898)
12.PRONI D1071/H/B/N/56/1 - Letter from Thomas Nester to Lord Dufferin (10 Sept 1879)
13.PRONI D1071/H/B/K/24/1-4 - Letters from Richard Keane to Lord Dufferin (1890-98)
14.PRONI PM/2/13/391 – Letter from Mrs John Murry to Sir James Craig PM (27th March 1925)
15.Board of Trade Journal, 1893, Vol 14, p.390
16.Belfast and Province of Ulster Street Directory, 1901
17.Belfast and Province of Ulster Street Directory, 1907

Secondary Sources

1.MacKnight, T “Ulster As It Is or Twenty-Eight Years’ Experience as an Irish Editor” London: Macmillan, 1896
2.Mayne, D “19th Century Coastguard Stations in Mourne” in 12 Miles of Mourne, Journal of Mourne Local Studies Group, Volume 7, 1996, p.13-28

Criteria for listing: architectural interest

A. Style
B. Proportion
C. Ornamentation
D. Plan Form
H-. Alterations detracting from building
K. Group value

Criteria for listing: historic interest

V. Authorship
X. Local Interest
Y. Social, Cultural or Economic Importance

Evaluation

A two-storey mid-terrace red brick coastguard cottage, one of nine, built in 1856 by Lord Dufferin and Clandeboye. The architectural detailing of its asymmetrical composition is of good quality. It remains substantially intact and, although some alterations have taken place to the facade in recent years, it retains much of its original character. This coastguard terrace is unique in that its construction was not entrusted to the Board of Public Works. Instead it was built to designs by Benjamin Ferrey under the direction of Lord Dufferin of Clandeboye Estate who wanted more control over the design of the building on his estate.